By Barry Shlachter, Star-Telegram Staff Writer

Like Shiner Bock? Find a new fave.

Perhaps expectations were too high.

Or just maybe, like a dunderhead, I had overchilled the bottle. I did shove it under ice in the freezer for 50 minutes...

Whatever the case, something went wrong with my first bottle of the Fort Worth microbrewed lager Rahr's Red. It seemed thin, watery even, and the flavor was meager. Luckily, as the beer warmed, flavors blossomed. A second bottle, which I had not given the deep-freeze treatment, was even better.

If you like Shiner Bock, give Rahr's Red a try. You might end up preferring Rahr's over the iconic Texas brew, although it might cost a buck or so more. And nothing's likely to be fresher than lager brewed a few blocks from the old Justin boot factory.

But please, sample it in a glass, not straight from the longneck, to get the full experience. This is not a tasteless, mass-produced, fizzy light lager that can be quaffed straight from bottle with no discernible difference in flavor.

And don't drink it too cold (as I did initially). Try it at about 50 degrees for full appreciation, the near-south-side brewery advises.

Rahr's Red pours a very clear dark amber with a creamy head that dissipates just a bit too quickly. It is certainly not as heavy as it looks. The flavors, a tad roasted, are complex -- a hint of spiciness and a very nice crisp hops finish.

The lager is made mostly with Rahr two-row malt, produced by the Midwest company run by relatives of the brewery's founding president, Fritz Rahr. To that, Brewmaster James Hudec added German malts -- and hops.

This is a long-anticipated bottled beer from the startup Rahr & Sons Brewing Co., a block off South Main Street at 701 Galveston Ave., where they host free tastings and tours from 1 to 3 p.m. every Saturday.

Although Fritz Rahr was able to churn out kegs of his Red and his Blonde, a German-style helles, getting the draft into bottles turned out to be a harder deal for the former Texas Christian University swimmer; he ended up three months behind schedule.

But market reaction has been smashing. Both the Majestic and Kings liquor-store chains report selling out of the Red at some stores just days after delivery. So be patient if it's not immediately available.

Rahr's Red is 4.75 percent alchol by volume and is being sold at about $7 a six-pack. It's available at some Kings and Majestic stores and Central Market. In coming weeks, it's expected at some Kroger supermarkets, Lazy Larry's, Hall's, Metro and Applejacks.

Barry Shlachter, (817) 390-7718 This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it